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My “Before Sunrise” Fantasy: Istanbul to Berlin by train

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Before Sunrise is one of my favorite movies. In February of 2015, in search of my very own Before Sunrise encounter, I embarked on a train journey departing Istanbul for Berlin. I envisioned endless scenes of gorgeous golden fields, maybe some time engrossed in a sultry novel, and life-altering conversations with others going home. I must have forgotten I wasn’t in a Hollywood hit. Either that, or I just didn’t plan well–plan at all, for that matter. My only goal was to see an old college friend from Serbia, except she had moved to Berlin.

So, I headed towards Berlin with a few stops in between.

Istanbul –> Sofia, Bulgaria –> Belgrade, Serbia –> Budapest, Hungary –> Berlin, Germany –> Paris, France –> Boston

After the journey, I made my first “scrapbook.” Below are images from that scrappy book.

My One Week Train Journey: Istanbul to Berlin (a sleepless, half-dazed, non-scenic, but exciting and unexpected cross-European trip to meet an old friend…and no moments of Before Sunrise, at all…)
Leaving Istanbul was hard for many reasons but in my heart it didn’t feel like goodbye, that I would one day return to this magnificent city. And I have!! It was very difficult to sleep because of the constant passport checks in the middle of the night. I was also warned to be careful in case of Mafias… (en route to Budapest). I spent the first train journey with a Bosnian student on his way home from studying in Northern Turkey. It felt safer not alone on the train…

 

From top left corner, clockwise: A very old man in a Commie outfit! I sat in this park to rest and to think. Pljeskavica, THE largest burger I’ve ever held in my hands and put between my lips. …and then a McMuffin for breakfast in Budpest (while Skyping Bülent and waiting for my hostel to open). Scribbles of Belgrade advice from Iva
Budapest (one night)

1. Along the river at the Turkish street bazaar in Berlin 2) A sign of acceptance and good people in the world 3) Graffiti all over the city 4) A Balkan band — went with Iva and Leonardo on my last night in Berlin 5) Gözleme — better than most I had IN Turkey!
Berlin had not been in my original itinerary, had there been an itinerary at all. At the time of planning my “escape,” I just knew I wanted to travel across Europe by train. As Belgrade was on the way from Istanbul, I reached out to Iva. I found her through an old pin she’d given me at Ithaca College, which had her sister’s website and subsequently her email. At least I was put in contact with Iva…who had moved to Berlin two years prior! So without any specific plan and a great desire to reunite with an old friend, I decided for Berlin, and there I went for 3 days at Iva’s in the Neuköln neighborhood (or dare I say, Turkey?). Iva, Leonardo (her Italian violin maker boyfriend–violins below) and I chatted long into the night. It was so great having the conversations we had. It felt very…adult…? Their Bulgarian roommate was dating a guy from Boston who knew Dirty Fences. Really, I felt like I was in Brooklyn. I also had dinner with Florian (a friend from China). And it felt strangely normal with so much to talk about! I’m not in contact with them now, but I know that if we were to meet again that it would be very pleasant with lots of conversation over drinks and food!
Between my flight from Berlin to Boston, I stopped in Paris for a couple hours to indulge in fine French cuisine! But aside from the pastry, nothing was as delicious as I’d imagined. It also rained a bit. But it was a pleasant way to spend a layover in France. I had also wanted to visit Paris because I was intrigued by the French influence in Istanbul (as I’d read in my books). I wanted to see and compare the connection between these two metropoles, Istanbul and Paris, the route of the Orient Express. How romantic! Romantic aside, I decided it was not a place I wanted to live. Neither were the other European (continued on next page)…
…cities I visited. Valentine said once that she didn’t want to live anywhere “too Westernized.” China is not too Westernized (I don’t know why I wrote this at the time…), but I do agree with Valentina. That’s why Turkey is such a good balance! I’ve already gone back to Turkey since the visit chronicled in this “scrapbook.” And I plan on returning again in the near future (if the violence doesn’t escalate). Overall, my Istanbul-Berlin train journey was not as I’d fantasized (…wisping past golden countrysides, reading novels upon novels, enjoying chit-chat with other travelers…). Instead, it was nightfall every time I took the train, so, no views…no sleep–mafia frights and police checkpoints…and a wee-bit of chit chat when things got really scary… BUT! I don’t regret that exhausting week and I’ll look back on this journey in disbelief that I pulled this off, no matter how zombie-like I passed through city by city…

 

October 8, 2015 (a journey entry)

The train journey I took from Turkey to Germany this past winter to see an old friend, a journey that was exhausting and long, but embarked on by choice, was the same route people today are taking to freedom. To escape from war, families are crossing the same borders I crossed. How was I able to travel from Turkey to Germany so easily, no questions, no pressure for survival or threat to turn back? There was an African man who sat across from me on the first leg of the journey to Bulgaria, with all the proper stamps and documents (from what I could tell), but was still taken off the train by the bulky Bulgarian officers…I still wonder what happened to him. For some political and/or historical reason, I, holding a U.S. passport, am allowed unequalled privileges and freedoms unattainable by so many in our world. Simultaneously grateful for my privileges and freedoms, I’m also ashamed.

 

May 10, 2017

I don’t wish to disparage my brief adventure across Europe by ending with those somber thoughts. It was wonderful in many strange ways. I just think it’s important to remember how lucky I am in this world, and that I should take nothing for granted. What I took for a leisurely trip was another’s path of survival. It’s a humbling truth.

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