Backpacking Zion National Park (West Rim Trail)

*I wrote this post in the summer of 2017, when I actually went to Zion National Park, but never took the time to upload photos (which took forever). Better late than never though, right?! Anyways, hope you enjoy 🙂

I’ve never really considered myself the outdoorsy type. I’ve hiked a couple New England mountains/hills, floated in aquamarine seas, slept under the stars…but backcountry camping was totally out of my realm. I’ve never had to dig a hole for my own bowels before. So when Natalie asked me in March if I wanted to go camping in Zion National Park, I said of course!!!

Natalie’s husband, Zach, is a backcountry pro and provided not just invaluable tips, but also the gear (that would’ve cost a million dollars more if we had to stock up on fresh equipment). He showed us how to pitch the tent (yes, that’s how not outdoorsy I am), filter water, and light up propane for cooking.

With those quick lessons, enough dehydrated food to last us a month, and poop trowels, Natalie and I flew into Las Vegas, where we’d rent a car and blaze through the 110 degree heat to Zion.

Three hours later, we reached Bumbleberry Inn.

But first thing’s first: got our wilderness permits that allow us to camp in the park. Next, a big fat dinner. For dessert, a warm bumbleberry pie a la mode with a view of the hot-pink sunset. And as the sun set further behind the canyons, so too did our eyes behind their lids…but we still had to fill up our water sacks, all 16 liters of them before we hit the hay.

We rose early the next morning to give ourselves plenty of time for a hearty breakfast (best sausage patties EVER at Porter’s Smokehouse). Our ride to Lava Point, the starting point of Zion National Park’s West Rim Trail, would pick us up at 9:30 from the Visitor’s Center.

Let me just say, this was one of the most fascinating drives through the Kolob region. I definitely recommend hiring Doug from Zion Rock and Mountain Guides to get you there because he’ll give you all the inside scoop and point things out along the way. You’ll also learn allllll about his family.

As soon as Doug dropped us off at the little wooden signpost, Natalie and I looked at each other and laughed. We were actually doing this. A hundred pounds on our backs (at least that’s how it felt) and 18 miles ahead of us, we set off, still laughing.

The first half of the day felt like a trek in New England, with more trees around than we expected. This also meant it was cooler. Most of the hike was on a plateau, so it was flat. To make it even better, we weren’t ever worried about getting lost because the path was clearly beaten.

We didn’t see a soul for hours. What we did see were rainclouds in the distance that appeared to head in our direction. For some reason, rain had never crossed our minds while packing. So, we booked it, peering back every five minutes to see if Zeus was out to get us. Much to the relief of our non-waterproof bags, he was not, but maaaaan did I wish to have had some crossfit training to prepare me for that moment of potential doom. 

We got to Campsite 6 around 5 pm, exhausted but also extremely proud to have accomplished day one. Zach would have been pleased to see how efficient we were in setting up camp. For dinner, we enjoyed a deliciously hot Pad Thai from Backpacker’s Pantry right out of the bag, picnicking on a giant fallen tree overlooking the valley. 

Our limbs were tired but we didn’t want to miss the sun setting behind us, so we put on our shoes and followed the trail towards the most magical sunset ever.

And then…the stars came out. An infinite number of them. And with every blink of an eye, more would appear.

It was a chilly night. Just like we weren’t prepared for rain, we weren’t prepared for cold. With lumps in our throats that would stay with us throughout the trip, we got up to see the sunrise, too.

By 9 am we were all packed up and ready to conquer West Rim Trail with a slightly lighter load.

Oof, the views that we’d come across were BREATHTAKING. Photos don’t do an ounce of justice to the natural beauty of this park, but I uploaded some so you get the idea.

 

 

The last part of the hike was really tough because it involved steep inclines directly under the sun. It didn’t help that blisters the size of peanut M&Ms had formed on my feet.

 

 

By the time we reached Angel’s Landing, which for most visitors is the highlight of Zion National Park, Natalie was completely fulfilled from our hike and didn’t feel the need to go up there. But a spurt of energy and curiosity pushed me to see what all the fuss was about.

It was worth it, but it’s also true that the views from the West Rim Trail were equally spectacular. Another hour downhill to the Grotto, we were finished in all sense of the word.

 

We had a campsite booked, but we felt we needed a little luxury for recovery so we checked into La Quinta with a swimming pool!! The hot tub was a nice treat for my muscles, and the burger at MeMe’s Cafe was prepared from the mental image I carried with me all day.

Two days and one night of hiking and camping in Zion National Park doesn’t seem like a lot in retrospect, but it was a strenuous test of my endurance. Now that I have proven to myself I’m capable of surviving in the wilderness, I should follow in Cheryl Strayed’s footsteps and embark on a 2,650 mile journey across the Pacific Crest Trail. 

JUST KIDDING, MOM! 

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